If you want to see fire, smoke and a real active volcano in action, then head out to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park in East Java. There are 3 volcanoes to view in this National Park, which is commonly referred to as Mt Bromo, its best-known peak. The scenery is dramatic - a spectacular volcanic natural display making it one of Indonesia’s most impressive sights with plenty of photographic opportunities.

A trip to Mt Bromo is easily done in a weekend from Jakarta. By flying to Surabaya and picking up a rental car and driver from the airport, it is a 3-hour drive to the township of Probolinggo, one of many places to stay in the area. The drive to Probolinggo is interesting and takes you up into the Tengger Highland area where you pass through many small traditional villages. There are around 60,000 mountain people living in around 40 villages. The Tenggerese people are Hindu but ethnically Javanese. Although they are Hindus, there is no caste system and their social patterns are similar to Javanese Muslims.

En route to Probolinggo, I passed through a small town, where a traditional ceremony was in progress. The streets were full of ponies decorated in bells, bright ribbons and colorful tribal motifs with high carriages on top carrying children in procession to a reception. These people spoke a dialect that I did not understand, so it was difficult to find out where they were going or what the celebration was about. It was a fascinating scene to observe, but being pushed for time, I had to move on to Probolinggo before dark.

My first night’s accommodation was the Grand Bromo Hotel, a moderate reasonably priced hotel. Upon check in I was informed my wake up call was booked for 3.30am. It is necessary to wake up at this hour, to catch the sunrise over Mount Bromo. It was early to bed that night and comforting to sleep in a naturally cool room (no air conditioning required). It was already 17oC when the lights went off and I knew it would be colder when I awoke.

I dressed in a warm thermal jacket, hat and gloves and was down in the lobby for freshly brewed coffee at 4.00am. The drive was around 30 mins to the jeep transfer point where a thriving clothing rental business was also going on. For around rph10,000 (USD$1.50) you could rent warm jackets, blankets, and other accessories. The temperature had dropped to 4 oC, and I must admit it was very cold. I needed all the warm weather gear I had brought.

I climbed into the back of the jeep and made my way across a vast windswept sand desert through the dark and swirling mist. It appeared to me, we were following a series of sand tracks. I couldn’t see a thing, but felt confident in the driver’s ability to negotiate his way through this dark vast barren landscape. The only light guiding us was from the two headlights of the jeep.

We made our way across this never ending moonscape and arrived on time for the sunrise from the Mount Penanjakan viewing platform. The effort was well worth it. I stood in awe of what lay before me. Mount Bromo rising at 2,392 meters with its massive 10km crater sat shrouded in mist. The other two peaks, Mount Batok, which stands at 2,440meters, and Mount Kursi even higher at 2,581meters create a breathtaking and dramatic sight. Farther south Mount Semeru, the tallest mountain in Java stands as the backdrop, at 3676 meters. This is the most active volcano and smokes continuously on the half hour.

The next exciting adventure was the descent by jeep down to the Mount Bromo crater itself. It was then that I realized the magnificence of this lunar lava landscape I had crossed in the dark of night. It was in fact a huge sand sea stretching across the entire valley floor. You can also trek across this valley floor and approach the crater from several directions, but for convenience I took the jeep this time.

At the entrance to Mount Bromo vendors and horse renters are plentiful. If you are hungry you can get hot noodles, fresh eggs, vegetables and coffee and tea from the “warung” operators. The water is fresh and is trucked in daily to serve the many people that visit Mount Bromo.

I decided to take the horse ride, to the rim of the crater (10 minutes only). You must then proceed by foot and climb the 256 steps to the lip of the Mount Bromo crater for a closer look inside. What you see inside is sulphuric, smelly, smoldering and most definitely active. From the vantage point on top of the rim, you have panoramic views over the entire volcanic landscape. It is a very impressive sight. Volcanic scoria spills from the side of this blown out volcano all the way down to the sand sea. The other 2 peaks rise majestically on either side and below the ancient Hindu Temple stands isolated and strikingly beautiful against this awesome sight.

Every year, on the 14th day of the last month of the Javanese Calendar, when the moon is full, Mount Bromo holds a “Kasada Festival”. The local Hindu Tenggerese people come in procession at sunrise to cast offerings into the crater at dawn to calm the god of the volcano.

I returned to the hotel around 11.00am and decided to take a look around the area and continued on to Malang. There is a famous Dutch café, “The Toko Oen” with chairs and décor dating from the 1930’s. The homemade ice cream was delightful. I drove on and one hour later arrived at Batu. This is a lovely hilltop town with cool temperatures and apple orchards. I checked into the Kasuma Agrowisata Hotel, a 3 star 160-room hotel featuring an agro tourism apple orchard and a selection of walks from the property.

The Sunday morning drive back to Surabaya was 2 ½ hours and very comfortable. It is a very even paced relaxing 2 days to take in the sights of Mount Bromo and being one of Indonesia’s top tourism highlights, I would highly recommend a weekend trip to the Mountain of Fire.

Practicalities:

Grand Bromo Hotel - Probolinggo: (0335) 581103
Kasuma Agrowisata Hotel - Batu : (0341) 593333
Garuda Flights – daily from Jakarta to Surabaya
Jeep rentals – easily arranged through Grand Bromo Hotel
Tour guide and Car Rental – can be booked through local travel agent