"It is a fairly easy hike and mostly flat". Such was the advice I was given before I started on my guided trek through the Halimun National Reserve about 3 hours from Jakarta. The plan was to walk for two days and come out at some hot springs near the coast, at Pelabuhan Ratu, staying overnight in Kampung Cicemet, Datar Salak, a remote mountain village.

The starting point was Sukatani Parakan Salak, and as I set out on the trail the vista before me did not look flat. I saw nothing but mountains in my way and this was the reality of the hike. I was in for two tough, long days of walking.

The first couple of hours I passed through some villages with photo opportunities greeting me all directions. A couple of times I stopped some local villagers who were literally running down the mountain balancing poles on their shoulders piled high with wood. At my request, they stopped to be photographed, however, I noticed whilst they did oblige they seemed a little uncomfortable. I was to find out later they were carrying a load of around 50 kilos and the only way they could get down the mountain was to run with gathered momentum. They were certainly not expecting a fellow trail dweller to stop them to take a photo!

After 7 hours of trekking (mostly uphill), I was pleased to see the village in the distance – my home for the night. At this stage all I could think of was a comfortable bed, some food and a good night’s sleep.

I was led to the official guesthouse, which was to be my place of residence, however I was immediately informed that since it was a full moon, there would be a special ceremony, which would involve music, and celebrations lasting until dawn and nobody in the village was expecting to get any sleep at all.

To add to this, I noticed the main music area had two very large speakers no further than 20 meters from my bedroom, and they were pointed in my direction! The sound coming from the stage at this stage of the afternoon sounded like a cat slowly cooking in a microwave mixed with rusty out of tune instruments. My subsequent protest was upheld and they moved me to “unofficial” house about 100 meters from the center of the party.

After a rub down from the local village massage man I headed to the guesthouse for a well-deserved dinner, which consisted of spicy omelet and rice.

In the morning I was introduced to the spiritual leader of the village who had been up all night greeting a stream of visitors who had arrived for the ceremony. I spent most of the evening talking with the local people about their village and their way of life. I discovered some fascinating things.

The local people are Sundanese but are ethnically known as Kasepuhan people. They live in strict accordance with their ancestral traditions. Rice cultivation is the main source of wealth and must be managed according to the order of their ancestors. The rice cultivation certainly creates social solidarity among the village, as I was to witness.

The cultivation of rice (called swidden) expresses a system of beliefs and values, which recognizes the sacred nature of the forest as well as the sanctity of rice and other plants that are cultivated. “Communication and gaining approval from the ancestors is critical to the direction of the village and subsequent decisions that are made”, said the spiritual leader of the community, Abah Anom Encup Sucipta.

Abah was chosen to be the spiritual leader of the people when he was 15 years old. Two years ago during a meditation session Abah was given a clear sign from the ancestors that it was time to move the village. Subsequently, the entire village packed up and moved to the present sight.

When they arrived at the given position, they had to build the village and create the rice fields from scratch. An incredible feat and testimony to the dedication and hard work of these people.

Many ceremonies are held each year including rituals such as Ngaseuk or preparing the ground for planting, and the harvest ritual when rice offerings are made to the gods.

Rice is not sold but used entirely for consumption by the village. The people live self sufficiently and the village leader pays for visits to the hospital in Pelabahun Ratu.

The Kasepuhan people are very spiritual and believe the forest is full of spirits, both good and bad. I heard many interesting tales through the night.

The next morning I awoke to a magnificent sunrise over the village and I set off after breakfast in the direction of the Indian Ocean and the hot springs. Over the next few hours I walked along a well-worn path through the rain forest crossing many creeks before descending down through some small villages to the coast.

It was a beautiful walk and really quite spectacular in parts. Especially the views of the ocean in the distance. The last hour was very steep and downhill all the way. By this stage the muscles were really starting to ache.

A comfortable bed, a quiet night and a shower were foremost in my mind as I continued on to the hot springs. It was a welcome sight to see the steam rising from the Sukarame River and a fantastic sensation to wade into the hot springs. I made myself comfortable amongst the smooth rocks and allowed the swift current to gently massage my sore muscles.

The beautiful scenery along the way and the fascinating culture of the Kasepuhan people had made the effort well worth while and for anyone wanting a real trekking adventure I suggest go take a hike in the Halimum Reserve.

2 families took this hike. David Metcalf and his son Jerome, aged 11 and Hans and Ria Winklemolen and their 2 sons, Joeri and Remo aged 15 and 10. It is with the greatest sympathy that we acknowledge, Hans Winklemolen died 3 months after this trip, at the Marriot bombing in Jakarta on August 5, 2003.

Our deepest condolences to the Winklemolen family, who have relocated to Holland.

Author@TravelWriter-Asia.Com