As you step through the gates of Losari you enter a realm filled with the aroma of the region’s elegant past. Dutch history and coffee date back 200 years in Java and the volcanic rich fertile islands of Indonesia produce some of the world’s finest coffee. When Indonesia gained independence in 1945, numerous coffee plantations fell into disrepair and neglect. It was in 1992, nearly 50 years later that Gabriella Teggia, an Italian native, fell in love with Losari Coffee Plantation. She literally stumbled upon this former Dutch plantation whilst trekking in the Central Java Highland Plateau. “The coffee fields were non productive and the house was in a state of disrepair”, Gabriella explained. “There was no electricity, no running water and no road access.”

Inspired by the natural beauty in the Highlands, Gabriella first envisaged transforming the ruins into the magnificent colonial coffee plantation that awaits guests today. The manor house now stands majestically against a backdrop of eight volcanoes. The dining room has been restored to its former glory, along with the library and drawing room.

From the magnificent balcony, one can sip Java coffee and inhale the slight fragrance of the robusta coffee berry carried by the breeze from the productive coffee fields that surround this fine plantation. One only has to gaze at the stunning volcanic mountain scenery and the grounds of the resort, to realize that Gabriella has created a truly inspirational haven.

It has taken Gabriella 40 years of her life in Indonesia to hunt for antique Javanese treasures to compliment the rooms. There is now an outstanding private collection of antique fixtures and fittings that truly enhance the historic feel of Losari. Gabriella’s penchant for antiques has become quite legendary. She even received a phone call one-day informing her that the old Mayong Train Station was about to be destroyed and sold piece by piece for it’s old teak wood value. This grand old daddy has now been restored to its former glory and has become the reception area and entrance to the resort.

The 26 villas that accommodate Losari’s guests all have individual stories to tell. Gabriella and her business partner Anita Dewayani have reconstructed each villa from original antique carvings that have been personally sourced. Four complete traditional houses from Kudus (in Java) have been transported and reconstructed at Losari, my favorite being the Joglo Kudus Villa. The solid 3 dimensional carved wooden doors of this villa provide a traditional entry into a sunken lounge area. The bedroom features a huge 4-poster canopy bed that rests beneath a ceiling adorned with two, thick, ornate, antique kudus carvings. This particular architectural style is known pesisir, and is influenced by the different trading routes of the Arabic-European-Portuguese era dating from the 15th century.

Life in Losari and the local village blend together. Gabriella encourages guests to take a stroll down to the village for a glimpse of rural Javanese life. Mothers maintain the continuum practice of swaddling their babies, field workers tend their crops, a vast array of pots simmer on open fires. To observe the pace of village life as it blends with rural activities is to glance into a culture that lives in harmony and rhythm within its own natural setting.

It was at the village’s bathhouse – the river – that Gabriella thought it would be a wonderful idea to bring a huge stone from the river to the plantation and carve a natural bath from it. This enormous stone was hauled from the river up to Losari. It weighed 800kg and its transportation proved to be a challenging engineering feat. In fact, the truck over tipped with the weight of the stone so the workers had to resort to chain-gang tactics and literally roll and maneuver it (on planks) all the way to Losari. It took 7 days.

Along with the natural stone bath (one only), many products used at the resort are directly from the natural environment. The massage and body products used at the spa are naturally grown and sourced on site and all the salad vegetables used at the restaurant are from the plantation’s organic garden.

As I sipped my coffee, I couldn’t resist asking about the sugar’s origin. Maybe it was also grown on site.” Well, yes, in fact it is (from here)”, Gabriella assured me. “That large tree over there is an Aren Palm Sugar Tree. It gives around 1 liter of liquid palm sugar per day which is then processed by the staff”. Gabriella explained further that in liquid form, Aren Palm sugar is good for the liver if drunk fresh. When boiled, it becomes sugar. If left longer it becomes vinegar and finally, if kept an even longer period, it becomes alcohol.

I glanced at the milk jug on the table and couldn’t help myself asking if Losari had a resident cow. “Well, no”, Gabriella confirmed, “but it is very fresh as we buy our milk direct from the Trappist Monks over the hill…they have cows.”

The traditional jamu lady (from the village) taps lightly taps on every villa door in the afternoon. Gabriella believes this may be the only resort in Indonesia that offers a door-to-door Jamu service, in the traditional way. Jamu is a selection of medicinal remedies and health tonics that are served by the glass. Jamu ladies can be seen all over Indonesia, walking around their local kampongs with different colored bottles carried in a flax basket strapped onto their back. Approximately 150 different plants, ranging from ginger to eucalyptus, are used in Jamu concoctions.

When visitors stay at Losari, Gabriella really wants them to feel at home. “You know, if baking bread has always been of interest to you, why not take a baking lesson in our kitchen?” Gabriella suggested. “We also have watercolors and estles here so why not try your hand at painting? You know, everything is here, you simply have to ask”. I came to realize at this point, that this was indeed a very inspirational place. A place where synchronicity can appear.

“And what about children?” I asked, “Are they welcome?” Gabriella smiled. “Of course”, she said. “This is my home and I want guests to feel it is also their home. We have a dedicated club for children and babysitters on call. We can arrange children’s cooking lessons, traditional games, and we offer music and lots of singing. There is also plenty for teenagers here”, Gabriella continued. “They can take a guide and go and hiking for the day. All 8 volcanoes can be climbed”.

Other adventurous pursuits include river rafting or you can take a sunrise elephant trek at Borobodur – one of Asia’s greatest Buddhist relics. This is a massive pyramid structure built in 850AD and is located only 70 kms from Losari. Alternatively, a trip to visit the Monastery can be easily arranged by guest services, as can the hiring of bicycles to undertake the 15km scenic cycle route around the local villages and out to the nearby picturesque terraced rice fields. Java is full of temples and ruins, and only 20 minutes from Losari you can reach Gedung Songo, a Hindu complex, which consists of nine temples and ruins. A secluded and relatively unknown waterfall is only 15 minutes away by car or bike whilst hiking trails provide access to the 8 volcanoes in the area.

The resort’s courtesy car is also available to take guests to and from the Abarawa Train Station for a ride on an historic steam train. The journey on the train is a delightfully scenic one, following a route through rural villages and valleys. Gabriella is very optimistic that one day a rail link will join the resort from the old Mayong Train Station at Losari.

The spa facilities at Losari opened on 15 November 2003 and feature Indonesia’s first Hamam Turkish Spa. A Hamam is essentially a steam bath house. The three level spa complex features a separate male and female clay domed Hamam. The 3 rd level features a never-ending swimming pool, which flows into the valley below. The water is sourced directly on site from a fresh underground spring located 120 meters deep below the earth.

Susan Stein, a teacher from Bali, has been training the staff for several months in the art of massage. “To give massage the quality of touch”, Susan advised, “You need to be connected”. Every massage begins with the sounding of a traditional chime bell. The bell is passed over the body so the mind and body “tune into the air waves”, as Susan described it. As the chime sound resonates, the mind comes into focus and the breath becomes regular. “The masseuse’s hands must not leave the body”, Susan continued. “Once started, the connection must not be broken. This connection and flow of energy is passed from the giver to the receiver and must stay connected”. The spa personnel have all been trained in Breathe, Tai Chi and Yoga. “When you have a massage by trained hands”, explained Susan, “you can feel intent of the masseuse. It makes all the difference”.

To prepare for this blissful massage experience, it is important that the body is not only clean, but also that the pores of the skin are open. This is where the Hamam comes into play. It may be as little as 10 minutes steam therapy, however it prepares the body to receive the essential benefit of a totally luxurious massage. The natural essential oils and creams used include earth based local coconut scrubs, lemon grass and ginger lotions, Losari coffee scrubs and wraps. Fresh organic food and juices are also available poolside at the Spa’s restaurant.

Whether you prefer to indulge in a massage at the Turkish Hamam Spa, visit the local village, undertake one of the numerous adventures offered or just relax quietly with a cup of Java coffee, a unique experience awaits you in the picturesque coffee fields and surrounds of Losari Coffee Plantation. This is truly an opportunity to pamper the soul and discover harmony within a natural Javanese paradise.

Author@TravelWriter.WS