For anyone keen on music, culture and the arts, a trip to Ubud is a must-do during your stay in Bali. The drive takes around 1 hour from Denpasar and, as you gently wind your way up towards the central mountains, you will be treated to views of terraced rice fields, unspoilt countryside and rural scenes that literally take your breath away. Ubud is a charming town, but not the quaint and remote place it was famous for in the 1930’s, when Western artists like Walter Spies, Colin McPhee, and Rudolf Bonnet frequented the town.

Ubud now has a mixture of trendy cafes, spectacular restaurants perched on hilltops overlooking rivers and jungle, Internet cafes, arts and crafts shops, very stylish clothing boutiques, antique stores and many galleries. It is pleasing to note the el-cheapo local traditional market still sits at the top of Monkey Forest Road, the best location in town, and does a thriving business with those who want to sift through the patchwork of stalls and bargain hard for art treasures, curios and batiks.

Music and Dance

Many people go to Ubud for music and dance - you have a choice of scheduled acts, which are posted daily. Bali’s unique and elaborate culture comes alive with a richness of colour, style and grace. Performances can be seen at the Ubud Palace and in the nearby villages of Peliatan, Batubulan, Batuan and Bona.

Walks around Ubud

There are many interesting walks around Ubud and one easy self-guided walk starts at the suspension bridge on Jl Raya Ubud, opposite Murni’s Warung, at the Gunung Lebah Temple. It is easy to find the trail, which starts, at the back of the temple. Simply follow it uphill. You will end up at Klub Kokos, which is owned by local Ubud artist, Krishna and his Australian wife, Cathy. A great spot for lunch overlooking the rice fields and Mount Agung. Continue on to the village of Bangkiangsidem and through to Payogan Village where you can catch a ride on a bemo back to town. A 2 hour walk at easy pace.

Organized tours can be arranged by Bali Bird Walks Tel: (0361) 975 009 or 08123913801 Email: su_birdwalk@yahoo.com

Rafting & Jungle Trekking

Sobek offer scenic rafting trips down the Ayung River through spectacular scenery and dramatic gorges. Sobek is a very professional company operating jungle treks, mountain biking and river kayaking trips. Many agents in Ubud handle bookings.

Recommended Restaurants

Café Lotus – This delightful café can be found on Jl Raya Ubud (Ubud Main Road). This is a quiet place of contemplation and, if you visit early in the morning, you will probably be the only one there. The restaurant sits in front of a large stone pool, which is full of beautiful fresh lotus flowers. It is not unusual to catch a glimpse of a Balinese woman gracefully gliding by on the path to the temple, which is located behind the pool, filled with offerings and incense. Take your sketchpad and pencils or your favourite book. This is a time-out place.

Murni’s Warung – located beside the old Dutch suspension bridge, overlooking the sacred Campuan River, Ubud Main Road. This is an old-time favourite, even before Ubud first got electricity in the 1970’s. Ibu Murni offers her guests a fine selection of good Indonesian food, a Thai menu and all the favourite Western dishes as well. Try the famous Balinese smoked duck. The restaurant has four levels and sits high above the river. Murni has been serving food to foreigners for over 30 years and many travelers who wander the globe cross paths again at Murni’s.

Casa Luna – You will find a superb international menu on offer at Casa Luna with crisp salads, beautiful homemade pastas. Try the recommended Bali-style paella – this is not to be missed. Casa Luna also has a bakery, with fresh baked breads, muffins and cakes.

Indus – On Jl Raya Sanggingan, this restaurant has the best views over the valley and, in fact, you may see people walking the trail here from the temple, mentioned under Ubud Walks. The restaurant was named after the Indus, one of the oldest living civilizations on earth (5,000 years old). The Indus valley and river winds through Pakistan, Northern India, The Himalayas and China. The restaurant has a beautiful outdoor setting, the finest quality of food and a gallery as well.

Ubud Night Life

There is quite a lively scene going on in Ubud after dark. A few suggestions:

For a laidback drinking atmosphere try the cocktail bar at Ary's Warung. Located on JI. Monkey Forest. Live reggae music and stays open until midnight.

Naughty Nuri's on Jl. Campuan (opposite the Neka Museum). A local hangout with heaps of character. Try the famous Martinis and if you are up for it, the outdoor roadside barbecue - the famous ribs are great.

The Jazz Café on JI. Sukma offers live jazz on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, from 7pm. Attracts a nice crowd. Snack menu available.

The Funky Monkey on Monkey Forest Road is the place to be seen later in the evening. They bash out the latest tunes and serve great cocktails to a young and chic clientele.

Accommodation

There are many styles of accommodation in Ubud to suit all budgets. You will find high end spa resorts to budget places for Rp 100,000 per night.

My favorite is Murni’s Houses. The prices are very reasonable and the location is perfect. You are within walking distance of all the fine eateries, galleries and places of interest. The grounds are delightful and Murni’s is a quiet place. It is very restful and, if you are after a real local experience, you will love it here. The front desk will arrange tours and transport without the normal hotel booking charge. Tel: (0361) 975 165. www.murnis.com or email: murni@murnis.com

Ubud is a place of spiritual beauty. It simply unfolds around you, in subtle ways. Life moves at a slow pace and the joy of the experience stays with you long after you return home. Go discover for yourself the place where two rivers meet and allow the beauty of this very special place, located on the island of the Gods, to renew and refresh you.

Author@TravelWriter.WS